curious about the Sig Pro

[Fly Navy]

I think i understand the process pretty well. But do you think this is a reliable way to buy firearms? I mean, I think it would be pretty tough to get screwed buy a shop, but im not so sure about gunbroker. That place seemed to have some pretty sweet deals on Sigs, which is why im interested!

Tag, youre it!

Many of the deals on Gunbroker are from shops. When buying new, there is little to worry about. Buying certified pre-owned, little to worry about. Buying used? Well, I prefer to buy used firearms in person, or at least have pictures of the pertinent parts (action, barrel, etc) so I can see the wear and tear. Does Gunbroker have a system like E-bay if someone screws you?

 

[NozeMan]

Many of the deals on Gunbroker are from shops. When buying new, there is little to worry about. Buying certified pre-owned, little to worry about. Buying used? Well, I prefer to buy used firearms in person, or at least have pictures of the pertinent parts (action, barrel, etc) so I can see the wear and tear. Does Gunbroker have a system like E-bay if someone screws you?

Not sure if they have system for not getting screwed. My buddy bought off of there and just asked to be able to put some rounds through the weapon when he picked it up at the gun shop. It was his way of keeping them honest. If I get one off of gunbroker, I'll try to stick to the new or factory certified used Sig.

 

[A4sForever]

....... Im just curious if anyone has any experience with that, be it good or bad. Thanks!

It's always Caveat Emptor when buying anything through the mail, email, online, catalog --- you name it. You can usually get satisfaction if you do business with reputable gun dealers/brokers; even some private sellers with good "track records" (usually available from online auction sites).

I've purchased many firearms "online" over the years --- sold some, too. They usually involved C&R firearms so we skipped the "storefront" dealer. Occassionally, I have purchased a modern firearm where I needed an FFL and a delivery address from a local dealer. Fly's information was all good; the only addition I might suggest is to get the FFL and dealer "set up" BEFORE you make any purchases online. If you do this, you can usually get a copy of the dealer's FFL and include it with your check/MO/certified funds. It saves time and any last minute "glitches". If you have someone locally (gun store, sporting goods store, pawn shop, etc. --- someone who deals regularly in new or used FFL-required firearms and thus has an FFL), establish a rapor with them and use their services to "legalize" any future purchases you might make that would ship via USPS or UPS/FedEx.

I only had one bad experience. A retired Marine from Florida sent me the wrong pistol (?) --- and it was a hassle getting it back as he broke the law when sending it to me from the get-go .....

All the rest were good experiences. I've obtained some really fine pieces from Auction Arms and EBay, before EBay got P.C. and stopped carrying firearms on their site. Check the sellers' online reputations --- only one of about 30-40 purchases was not as advertised in my experience. Buena suerte ....

 

[Fly Navy]

Forgot to add, a typical FFL price should be $25 or under. Some guys are real dicks and will charge $50, or even $100. I had a dealer tell me he was going to charge me $100, I literally laughed in his face and walked out of his store, telling him I would never spend a dime there.

 

[metro]

I've used both AuctionArms and Gunbroker. Used Gunbroker to buy my first gun, which, like Fly's first, was a SIG P226 in 9mm. Used AuctionArms to buy my newest, my Kimber Classic Stainless 1911.

Had good experiences on both, and they have a feedback system at both sites, so, much like EBay, make your judgement based on that and pictorial evidence of the item.

 

[NozeMan]

Thanks guys, appreciate the advice!

 

[T-man]

A good mom&pop shop is a good way to go as well. There is a gun shop here in the Seattle area that I will now swear by. It's where I recently bought my first gun, and I have had nothing but pleasure working with this shop owned and operated by a father and 2 sons. Their prices are very competative, they are knowledgeable, and very easy to work with. When I purchased my gun, they gave me accessories at cost, and since myself and 2 friends were all buying at the same time, they threw in a free hogue grip for my friend, and 2-3 free boxes of ammo. We of course asked for the stuff and wanted to pay for it, but they insisted that we take it for free. IMHO you can't beat that kind of face to face service. I will go back there again and again, they have certainly earned my business.

If you live in, are stationed, or just visiting the area and would like to visit this really cool little gun shop, here is their info:
Discount Guns in Kirkland
www.discountgunsales.com
address and phone# can be found on their website. I also believe they do some online sales (through gunbroker I think).

 

[Fly Navy]

That's the kind of place that would get my business. After that transaction, they could have their prices slightly high, but so long as I still got great customer service, I'd continue giving them my money. It's far better than giving it to China... I mean Walmart.

 

[NozeMan]

What is the best way to pay for an auction online? Gunbroker lists many methods, but is anti-paypal. Suggestions welcomed!

 

[metro]

I used money order on Gunbroker, Paypal on AuctionArms. Money Order/Certified/Cashier's Check are good options, because they are trackable, etc etc.

 

[A4sForever]

Payment:
1st choice: PayPal -- easy, secure, quickest
2nd choice: Certified funds-PMO (cheapest?)/Bank MO -- I don't send cashier's checks -- they're CASH (!) and can be "abused"
3rd choice: personal check (usually takes longer 'cause it must clear before shipment)

When I send my C&R or my dealer's FFL and/or certified funds, I also "Priority -2 day mail" it ... helps with time, tracking, security, and makes for good seller-buyer relations.