• Please take a moment and update your account profile. If you have an updated account profile with basic information on why you are on Air Warriors it will help other people respond to your posts. How do you update your profile you ask?

    Go here:

    Edit Account Details and Profile

Buying a House at each duty station?!?

Status
Not open for further replies.

Squid

F U Nugget
pilot
http://biz.yahoo.com/pfg/e03greenspan/art011.html
http://biz.yahoo.com/pfg/e03greenspan/index.html

Above is an ARM vs fixed commentary by Suze Orman (FWIW I can't listen to her talk without wanting to jam pencils into my eyeballs).

We're looking to close on a place in Meridian here soon. We're going with a 30 yr fixed using VA. With the number of professionals in the town/village renting it won't be a problem (not even couting Navy studs with wives/kids that want a no hassle rent).
 

The Chief

Retired
Contributor

BigWorm

Marine Aviator
pilot
Just a few questions – good stuff on the interest rates. How do you know if the house is in houseworthy condition – Is the roof going to fall apart? Is there mold growing in the baseboards? Bodies buried under the floor?

Any experiences on a logical progression of people to talk to before signing? Do you ever take the note to a base lawyer to make sure the realtor/broker isn’t giving you the runaround?

What about some of the fees – closing costs, down payments, etc..
 

Mcaf

Registered User
ALWAYS get the house inspected. You can get your prospective house inspected for realtively cheap (couple hundred). Never use the banks or the owner's inspector either.
 

Squid

F U Nugget
pilot
#1 for all non new homes (even new ones), get a home inspection. the price can be tacked into closing costs (or into the mortgage if you are doing a streamlined loan). that way once you have a contract, if something isn't as it should be you can either re-negotiate for them to fix it/lower the price of the home, or walk away from it altogether without being tied into buying it.

#2 you can get an appraisal. In the contract you can say that if the property doesn't appraise for what you are going to pay you can re-negotiate or walk away from it.

Closing costs are kinda like what the car dealer gmakes you pay when buying a car. The tax, signing fees, battery fees, etc you see when buying a car is the same as the attorney fees, title insurance, PMI (mortgage insurance, don't need it if you're going VA or putting 20% down), etc you will pay at closing (anything from $0 to $5k). Here's a hint. Go to barnes and noble, sit down and read buying a home for dummies. I even went and bought Suze Orman's book "Young Fabulous, and Broke" for the home buying section. It talks about all of the finances involved at a pretty basic level.

clear as mud? good.
 

Brett327

Well-Known Member
None
Super Moderator
Contributor
Mcaf said:
ALWAYS get the house inspected. You can get your prospective house inspected for realtively cheap (couple hundred). Never use the banks or the owner's inspector either.
Most lenders require an inspection for non-new homes. Probably cost you ~300 bones depending on location. It was actually cool to watch them run around checking everything. I learned a lot of stuff I never would have otherwise.

Good times,

Brett
 

The Chief

Retired
Contributor

Agree. Must have an inspection. Most important: In the contract you sign you must insist on a inspection contingency. i always demanded that if the inspection showed any faults, the contract was null and void, but at my option the owner could either repair fault or reduce asking price. Gotta be specific. Termite inspection usually required by lender. Other items such as lead based paint, radon, water seepage, and more recently mold and mildew, and the list goes on, are to be part of the contract, some required by some jurisdictions, not all. As with any contract, your must understand the contract, make your agent explain it to you. You do not necessarily need an attorney, except at closing, then an attorney must close. But remember, even though you pay him/her, they in fact represents all parties, ergo at times i have paid for two. Sounds odd, but if i did not feel comfortable, i got second view on issues. Also, the contract should have a contingency of you getting a loan, at the appraised price, minus down payment. Some think this is mandatory, but it is not. Have done "no contengent" contract for what ever reason, usually market forces.

Closing costs: Lender must give you Form HUD 1A, think it is called, a good faith estimate of closing costs. Consists of long list of items such as loan points, title insurance, taxes, recording fees, hazard insurance, recording fees, courier fees, ... you get the picture. Ask you agent what the average closing cost is in your area. Downpayment goes to the heart of your loan and type of loan. Ranges from 5 to 20 percent down. That determines your interest rate.

Agents: In most areas, the agent works for the seller. The seller pays the agent and even though it is "your agent" still representing the seller. i say most areas because there is emerging the "buyer agent". Gets too complicated for this discussion, but in general you sign an agreement with an agent and they become your agent, representing you. The seller still pays, but they are to represent you in the deal.

This subject is near and dear to my heart because i believe owning a home is much more difficult for military folks because we move around so much. Uncle does not pay your closing costs, does not cover any losses you might have when you sell your house for less than you paid for it and etc, common practice in private sector, (as well as Civil Service, to some extent). In addition we go to high cost areas (WashDC, San Diego, SanFran and etc) making it tough. Selling after three years in an area can cost you money. Being an absentee landlord is also tough.

Tough but worthwhile.
 

zippy

Freedom!
pilot
Contributor
ENSsquid said:
Closing costs are kinda like what the car dealer gmakes you pay when buying a car. The tax, signing fees, battery fees, etc you see when buying a car is the same as the attorney fees, title insurance, PMI (mortgage insurance, don't need it if you're going VA or putting 20% down), etc you will pay at closing (anything from $0 to $5k). Here's a hint. Go to barnes and noble, sit down and read buying a home for dummies. I even went and bought Suze Orman's book "Young Fabulous, and Broke" for the home buying section. It talks about all of the finances involved at a pretty basic level.

Closing cost are dependent on a number of things, like the state your buying in (taxes) and who your using to finance (some places pack on points to the closing costs).

You can get around PMI by financing the house using two "trusts" instead of one. Typically the second trust is at a higher interest rate, or is a balloon, but you are still paying money towars the house with the extra payment, and the interest is tax deductable. I bought a townhouse in Northern Va right after I was commissioned and didn't have 20% to put down, so I ended up with an 80/15/5 (80% 3/1 arm first Mortgage, 15% 15yr balloon second Mortgage, 5% down). Im not a huge fan of the idea behind the balloon mortgage (pay x amount of years and then have a large lumps sum to payoff at the end), but I am going to consolidate the two loans at the end of the 3yr term with a refinance so I am not too concerned (that and the increases in equity due to the nutso DC housing market negates the downsides to it).

Oh, on the financing note, I went through the builders mortgage group because they were willing to accept an income/debt ratio that allowed me to buy the house i wanted (approx 50, where USAA and Navy Fed only wanted it to be around 30)- basically all there cared about was that they recieved their points at closing, and I that I made the first payment because they sold the loans right after they got the money.

My only suggestions about renting out your house after you move would be to Max out on the liability insurance (I think the cap is at $1million), use a Property management company (extra target for liability incase things go wrong- and they can take care of things when your deployed etc.), and don't allow pets (they destroy the carpets). Crim history/financial checks are another good idea if you have the ability to get them done.

Dtirey,

Realestate markets, like everything else is based on supply and demand... pensacola had a lot of homes destroyed with the storm, and people have seen prices here jump approximately 20% in the short term... will prices remain at current levels (which are still relatively cheap compared to the North East)??? Thats an interesting question, its going to take a while before all those homes are rebuilt. The renting market here is tougher then DC from what ive seen (once again, that appears to be storm induced). If your looking to buy a place down here and keep it and rent it for the very long term, Id strongly consider it. If you want to buy it then dump it in a few years, id probably hold off and see if the market re adjusts itself a bit.
 

Squid

F U Nugget
pilot
dtirey said:
Awesome topic! I have a question about buying in Pensacola. I'm married w/ children and going back and forth whether I should buy a home in P-cola. I'm worried that after primary, I will be transfered and will have to leave the family in P-cola because I may have trouble renting it. Does anyone have any recommendations for me?


my suggestion is to BUY. You'll be there a while, the kids can stay if they want (geo-batch with pensacola BAH), or you could rent it out. I was told by a number of people the housing market is crazy for renting because of the hurricane. If not, I know a guy that wants to rent his 3/2 house by the back gate here soon....
 

Cate

Pretty much invincible
Two of the best things you can do when you're buying a house are to find a good mortgage broker and a good closing attorney. They'll help make all of the arrangements for things like appraisals, inspections, repairs, paperwork (VA loans have sooo much paperwork), insurance, payoffs, title insurance (and don't ever let anyone convince you you don't need it), etc., etc. They'll also walk you through the legalities at the closing, explaining any waivers, your TIL, closing statement, mortgage, and so on. (In the interest of full disclosure, I will say that I used to be a real estate paralegal, so I suppose I'm kind of biased, but a good attorney will tear his hair out so you don't have to.)

GRECAA (Georgia Real Estate Closing Attorneys Association) (www.grecaa.com) has a lot of good information for real estate closings specific to the state of Georgia; you can check with the bar association in your state to get information and find attorneys nearby.
 

The Chief

Retired
Contributor
dtirey said:
Does anyone have any recommendations for me?
]

Yes, shipmate, I do. That is; do your homework, do the "what if's". If you get P-3's you leave in avg 9 mos, E-2: about 12 mos, jets 1/2: about 16 or 20 months. Do not dig yourself into a financial hole. Be sure you can afford what you buy.

The following is a link to MLS in P'cola. The market is very tight, it seems to me. Was interested the first of the year, could not get any agent I called to return my call. Just and indication of the activity going on.

http://www.pensacolamls.com/property.asp?gateway_la_code=4718

In the interest of full disclosure, I have no ties to this site nor any agent represented on the site.
 

Pedro

I like her bangs!
Hi,

Thanks for all the excellent advice. Will be moving to Atlanta soon for a couple of years minimum. Anyone think it would be a good idea to buy a house there? And isn't it possible to get a mortgage through USAA, or should I go through a broker, like I read on an earlier post. Thanks...
 

bennett4362

deployment sucks
atlanta has a booming real estate market right now; it's also more of a buyer's market at this point. if you can get in one of the newer neighborhoods they're building up, equity is soon to come fast knocking at your door. we just moved from there and left a house rented out.
 

Pcola04/30

Professional Michigan Hater
pilot
Free credit reports

Check this site out for your free credit report. I would reccomend the FICO option (used to work in sales....if the number was right you were approved for financing no questions asked, the the lower numbers required a more in depth study of your credit report to determine eligilbility) just so you can get a ballpark idea of what kind of leverage you have to work with when it come to bargaining for your interest rate.

from my experiences <650 you are in trouble
650-700- the interest rate isn't gonna be great
>700 your good
>720 you cold ask and we would listen very carefully
> 750 we were tripping all over ourselves trying to get
you to sign on the line no matter what
TIP: Only get one at a time.....you will get a free check evey quarter, the reports are practically identical so dont waste them all in one sitting.

P.S. I just did this...takes less than a minute. Very easy....you should do this even if your not in the market to buy anything.

P.S.S. If you do not live in one of the free states, as long as you have lived in one of the free states you should be able to list your old address and get the goods. Supposedly military members can get theirs regardless of your current residence, but I was not able to figure that out...might just require a call to the company.
https://www.annualcreditreport.com/cra/index?move=yes
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top