This site posts hospital beds in use. Of note, we're currently at about 118,000 people hospitalized with a capacity nation wide of about 250,000. Of course that nationwide number isn't very valuable since we're not going to fly a COVID patient from Wisconsin to Texas to get treatment. Additionally, hospitalized doesn't necessarily mean that the patient is in the ICU.
This site breaks it down a little more and gives ICU COVID patient breakdown vs total ICU patient population breakdown by state, which is a much more valuable number than a national overall number. Reading the data is annoying because the presentation is terrible, but it gives numbers and percentages by date and state, which is interesting to see.
As for masks, I live in the city and work out in the rural portion of N. FL. Masks are standard inside in the city (although there is mask fatigue), but out in the rural parts, masks aren't as much a part of life...in part because there isn't as much spread out there.
Amusingly (well, maybe not amusingly), there's one county that I fly to infrequently. It has a population of 5,000 people (or less, I can't remember). The several times I've gone there, it's been to pick up a COVID patient. My theory is it's a county of swingers.